Whirling dervishes in Istanbul, in a working Mevlevi lodge
The Sema, the turning prayer of Rumi's Mevlevi order, is held every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at 17:00 at Kasımpaşa Mevlevihanesi in Beyoğlu, a lodge first founded in the 1620s. It lasts about an hour and begins with an introduction by the lodge's sheikh in Turkish and English. Seats are $26 (reduced from $29), reserved online and paid at the door.
No card needed to reserve. Free cancellation up to 24 hours before. Wheelchair accessible.
Next: Sunday 20 September, 17:00, 136 of 180 seats free
Next ceremonies
Seats are shown live from the lodge's booking system. Pick a date to reserve; you pay at the door on the day.
Is there one tonight?
A ceremony, not a show
Most whirling dervish evenings sold in Istanbul are staged versions of the Sema, put on in converted halls for visitors. Some are very good. Kasımpaşa is a different thing: a lodge where the Sema is held as worship, which visitors may attend. Here is how they differ.
| Aspect | Kasımpaşa Mevlevihanesi | Staged shows in the city |
|---|---|---|
| Where | A Mevlevi lodge in Beyoğlu, founded in the 1620s and rebuilt on its original plot | Converted halls: a 15th-century bathhouse in Sirkeci, a medrese or a cistern in Sultanahmet, restaurants and boats |
| What it is | Worship: the Sema held in a working lodge, introduced by its sheikh | A staged version of the Sema, presented as a show |
| Explanation | Live introduction by the sheikh in Turkish and English, questions welcome after | Varies: a short film, a booklet, or nothing |
| Light and sound | Live music, no light effects | Stage lighting is common; some halls use screens |
| Photos and applause | Neither, during the ceremony | Rules differ by venue |
| When | Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at 17:00 | Most evenings, usually 19:00 or later |
Every venue, with times and who each one suits: the best whirling dervish show in Istanbul, compared.
What happens in the hour
The complaint visitors make most about whirling dervish evenings in Istanbul is that they did not know what they were watching, or why the music went on so long before anyone turned. This is the order of the ceremony, so you do.
- 1
Arrival
Staff meet guests at the main gate on Keramet Sokak and show you to the ceremony hall. Seats on the ground floor are closest to the dervishes; the gallery above shows the whole formation. The lodge's two small exhibitions are open before and after.
- 2
The introduction
The lodge's resident sheikh explains, in Turkish and English, what you are about to see: what the robes mean, why the dervishes bow their heads, why one hand is raised and one lowered, and what the four salutations stand for. Guests often say this is what made the ceremony make sense.
- 3
The hymn and the reed
A single voice sings a hymn in praise of the Prophet. The kudüm drums strike once, and the ney, the reed flute, improvises alone. The Sema begins with listening; this is why the music comes before any turning.
- 4
The walk of Sultan Walad
The dervishes, in black cloaks, walk slowly around the hall three times behind the sheikh, bowing to one another as they pass his seat. Tradition reads the three circuits as three degrees of knowing God.
- 5
The four salutations
The cloaks fall away. Each dervish bows to the sheikh and begins to turn, arms opening, right palm up and left palm down. The turning comes in four parts, the salutations, with a pause and a bow between each.
- 6
Recitation and prayer
A passage of the Qur'an is recited and the sheikh leads a prayer. The dervishes leave the hall in silence. Nobody applauds.
What guests say
All reviews4.7out of 5from 17 guest ratings collected by the lodge's booking system, 12 with a written review.
“A very charming ceremony, preceded by a short and interesting cultural introduction. One of the best moments of my trip to Istanbul!”
★★★★★Mario, Bologna, Italy, June 2026 “Time to stop and slow down , different from any other place- were the human soul is beeing reborn. Very interesting experience”
★★★★★Marta, Poland, June 2026 “Great experience. It was a bit hard to find though.”
★★★★☆Lisa, United States, June 2026 “I liked the clear explanation in the beginning”
★★★★★Paula, Portugal, June 2026 “It was wonderful. Mesmerising. Solemn but uplifting. The introduction was difficult hear - a combo of poor sound quality, rapid speech and a thick accent. Don’t know if this can be improved. But the dancing (spinning) was spectacular. Find your way here for a novel, non-commercial travel experience.”
★★★★★Fiona, Australia, May 2026 “The show was great. But the organizers should not allow to participate with small babies. There were 3 babies in the show and it was very difficult to focus on the show, as they were crying etc. for most time.”
★★★★☆Verified guest, Poland, May 2026
Before you go
- Getting there
- Keramet Sokak 17, Beyoğlu: 15 minutes' walk from Şişhane metro, 16 from Galata Tower, down steep lanes. A taxi to the gate is easiest. Directions
- Arrive early
- Twenty to thirty minutes before 17:00. The introduction starts on time.
- Dress
- Modest clothing; covered shoulders and knees are the safe choice. What to wear
- Photos and phones
- No photography, video or applause during the ceremony. Phones silenced. Why
- Children
- Welcome at any age, if they can sit quietly for an hour. Advice for families
Questions
Where can I see the whirling dervishes in Istanbul?
The Sema is held as worship, with visitors admitted, at Kasımpaşa Mevlevihanesi, a Mevlevi lodge in Beyoğlu, every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at 17:00. Staged whirling dervish shows run most evenings in Sirkeci and Sultanahmet, the best known at the Hodjapasha Culture Center. The Galata Mevlevi House is a museum. More
Is it a show or a religious ceremony?
At Kasımpaşa it is a religious ceremony. The Sema is held as worship in a working Mevlevi lodge, introduced by its sheikh, and visitors watch in silence. There are no light effects and no applause. Theatre, restaurant and cruise versions elsewhere in the city are staged shows. More
How long is the whirling dervish ceremony?
About an hour. It opens with a short introduction by the resident sheikh in Turkish and English, then the music begins, the dervishes enter, and the turning comes in four salutations. There is no interval. More
Can I take photos at the ceremony?
No. Photography, video and applause are not allowed during the ceremony, and phones should be silenced or switched off. It is a prayer, and the dervishes are not performing for a camera. More
What should I wear?
Modest clothing, out of respect for a place of worship. Covered shoulders and knees are the safe choice for everyone. Comfortable shoes help: the lodge is reached by steep lanes. More
Can I bring children?
Yes. There is no minimum age, but the hall is silent for the whole hour, and crying or chatter carries. It suits children who can sit still and quiet for that long. More
How do I get to Kasımpaşa Mevlevihanesi?
It is in Beyoğlu, about 15 minutes' walk from Şişhane metro station (M2), 16 minutes from Galata Tower and 20 minutes from Taksim Square, down steep lanes. A taxi is easiest; ask for Keramet Sokak, Kasımpaşa. Ferries on the Üsküdar–Eyüp and Kadıköy–Eyüp lines stop at Kasımpaşa pier, a 10-minute walk away. More
Can I see whirling dervishes for free in Istanbul?
Not on any regular schedule. We could not find a free, regularly held public Sema anywhere in Istanbul in 2026: the lodges, the AKM cultural centre and the staged shows all sell tickets. Semazens sometimes appear at municipal or festival events, but only occasionally. The Galata Mevlevi House is a paid museum. More